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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.